Blog

I first discovered the wintery beauty of Boston Harbor on a cold and rainy day in December of 1993. I was on Beacon Hill, having just attended my first Friends of Boston Harbor Islands meeting. It was a few days before Christmas, and I had decided to take a late afternoon walk around Boston; perhaps there would be lights and decorations to enjoy.

As I walked towards City Hall and the Old State House, there seemed to be a sense of magic in the air around these historic places and the nearby waterfront. I wandered first into Faneuil Hall and found hundreds of hand bell ringers in the hallways, and a rotunda filled with crowds of singers; voices raised in celebration. They had come from churches and choirs in many surrounding communities to this historic site, now full of enthralled visitors, singers, and listeners joining together in song – It was truly magical. Later in the evening, I followed carolers around Beacon Hill, and here, despite the falling rain, there was more beautiful Christmas music filling streets and doorways. More music and more magic. What might be next?

As I listened and walked, I found myself thinking again about the waterfront. I had recently become fascinated  by stories of the harbor and its’ history narrated by the captain of a boat tour of the Inner Harbor.  As that memory grew stronger, I found my way to the waterfront. It was still crisp and cold and by now, the rain had turned to sleet. The buildings and wharves here were coated and shiny; Christopher Columbus park had become a sheet of ice reflecting the lights of the city and from the neighborhoods across the water. Boats decked with holiday lights paraded by and, as the water glistened, the moon broke suddenly through the clouds. Moonlight seemed to shine everywhere.  I was enchanted.

This icy prelude was just the beginning of an extreme cold spell that lasted through much of that winter. Some of the shallow areas of the harbor had frozen and, as I was soon to discover, many of the islands were again covered with snow.

My Christmas week experience of the waterfront had encouraged me to take a New Year’s Day boat trip to Thompson’s Island hosted by The Friends of the Boston Harbor Islands. I was eager to be out on an island and happily set out on this new adventure.

Once on the Island I joined an exploratory tour through the snow; discovering new horizons in all directions.  I learned about various uses for the different types of edible plants and native trees to be found on these islands. But the real treasure of the day for me was the small cemetery with just a few rocks peeking out from the snow, and one small and solitary sign indicating that this was a special place. The tour guide told us that there were children buried here from an accident during the previous century. As there were no markers, I asked who they were and was told that the children had attended school on the island but no one was really sure who they all were.  I stood looking at the simple stones and made a pledge to myself;” I’m going to find out.” I want to know”. ***

I also wanted to know about other islands in the harbor, and I soon visited George’s Island and Fort Warren for the first time. On that trip, there was again snow and ice on many of the islands. In the harbor itself, we saw Ice Breaker boats working to clear passages. And on the island, staircases leading up to the ramparts at the fort were filled with snowdrifts.

One of the most memorable things about that snow filled but sunny day was the diversity of people who had come along. As I slid in the snow down the stairs (safely) to the lower area of the fort I met a woman from Hawaii who told me that she was related to an archaeologist who had known and worked with Lawrence of Arabia.

It was exciting to discover this intriguing place, so close to the city but feeling so far away. I could sense that there was so much more to do, and to learn. A fascination with Boston Harbor began to take root in my heart. I knew I would be back soon, and often.

And I was. These unexpected winter moments were Christmas gifts that truly inspired my connection to the harbor.  Over these many years, I have come to know and care about this wonderful and important place. The heart space that opened for me that cold winter season has only grown stronger and deeper, and continues to do so. [1]

One lasting memory of these early day is the realization that harbor magic happens year-round, even on the coldest days of winter. The harbor continually offers us opportunities of discovery and connection to special people and adventures that can’t always be foreseen. I hope you soon find your own island magic, if that hasn’t already happened.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

[1] See “East of Boston” by Stephanie Schrow.  Chapter 10 tells the story of Carol’s successful effort to have the names of ………